Remember..."Each breast should point outward to the right and left".
(a repeat post from 2010)

Vintage sewing and fashion ephemera with a few other finds from my travels.

In searching this company I found that Linus Pauling bought 2 scarves and one stole (he wrote a check). And there is another ad here from the Miami News.
I wish we could see these clearer, or better yet, see them in person. It wouldn't it be great to match the scarfs with the designers? Any guesses?
"If you check your pattern with your measurements and make adjustments before cutting your fabric, fitting your dress will be easy.
Try your dress on right side out and stand before a long mirror. You should have a basting thread from top to bottom in the center back and front (unless there is a center opening serve as well to check the perpendicular line).
Keep the picture of the garment before you while you fit. It can be tacked to the corner of your mirror. You need pins and a tape measure also.
Pin the shoulder pads in place before you begin your fitting.
These diagrams show how your garment should hang. If seams or darts must be taken up or let out to gain the desired effect, pin the corrections and transfer the change with chalk on the wrong side after you take the garment off.
Lengthwise threads of the material down center front and center back should be perfectly straight and perpendicular to the floor. (Except in a bias cut dress).
Crosswise threads Should be straight across figure and parallel to floor at bust and hip.
Underarm seam should fall in a straight vertical line from the center of the arm pit to the floor.
Regulation shoulder seams should be directly on top of shoulder, sloping neither to the front nor the back.
Garment should be loose but without wrinkles at the bust line to give ease, and allow arm to move freely. About 4 inches larger than bust measurement is usual allowance.
At a point about six and a half inches below the top of the sleeve the crosswise grain should run parallel with the floor and the lengthwise grain parallel to the underarm seam. It should allow for movement of upper arm It should be without wrinkles. Darts or gathers in long sleeve should come at the elbow.
Skirt should fall straight down from hips allowing ease to sit and not pull or cup up under when standing."

BEFORE-"I was underweight, thin, lacking in energy and vitality," says Mrs. Virginia Lee Higgins of Louisville, Kentucky. "Then, after reading your ad, I decided to take the Powers Home Course to see what it could do for me . . ."

This is a sample of the famous Powers "Photo-Revise" One of 60 individualized features of the Powers Home Course, it showed Mrs. Higgins a new hair style, how to apply her make-up correctly, how to achieve new charm, loveliness.

AFTER-"'Now, my husband calls me his "personal Powers girl"!" says Mrs. Higgins, after completing her easy, 7-week Power Home Course in which she learned, in the privacy of her own home, the beauty secrets that have made "Powers Girls" famous.




Copper buttons, a flared back and a deep collar for chilly-day warmth give triple interest to Ceil Chapman's coat of Anglo woolen. Sizes 10 to 16. About $45. Saks Fifth Avenue, New York, Beverly Hills, Chicago and Detroit. Elizabeth Arden's April-May springtime make-up.


MATERIALS;
Hiawatha Belastraw Art 35, 2 tubes
Steel crochet hook No. 00
3 Yards plaid taffeta ribbon 11/2" wide
CROWN
With double strand of Belastraw, ch 4. Join with sl st into ring. 1st rnd - 7 sc in ring* 2nd rnd - Work sc and dc in each st around (14 sts - 7 increases). 3rd rnd - *Sc in next sc, thread over, insert hook from right to left around post of nexl dc and draw loop through, (thread over and draw through 2 loops) twice - dc made around post of dc. Repeat from * around (7 points). 4th rnd *Sc in each st to next dc, sc in dc, dc around post of same dc. Repeat from * around (7 increases). Repeat 4th rnd thus increasing 7 sts each rnd until piece is about 12" across. There will be 1 st more between post sts on each rnd. Work sc even until 2 1/2" from points.
BAND
1st rnd - *Skip next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Work sc for 1 1/2" decreasing if necessary for headsize. Trim with ribbon as illustrated using double thickness of ribbon for loops.
SPECIAL DIRECTIONS
Read Before Starting Work
Bead crochet should be worked rather tightly (beads should be close but texture pliable) using No. 9 steel crochet hook. Unless otherwise stated, 1 bead is slipped into place before each single crochet stitch.
Slip 2 bunches of beads onto HIAWATHA Bead Twist. Start work. When all beads have been crocheted, cut Bead Twist and fasten off leaving 4" end. String additional beads, then tie Bead Twist (4" from end) into same stitch where last bead was worked. Insert hook in last stitch and continue work, crocheting over ends for several stitches to secure.
MATERIALS:
Hiawatha Beads, 40 Bunches
Hiawatha Bead,Twist Art. 750, 3 spools
Steel crochet hook No. 9
Round Box Llning 4 1/2" in diameter
BOTTOM
Without beads, ch 4. Join with slip st into ring. Slipping 1 bead into place before each sc work as follows: Ist rnd - 6 sc in ring. Mark beginning of rnds. 2nd rnd - 2 sc in each st (12 sc - 6 increases). 3rd rnd - *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st. repeat from * (6 increases). 4th rnd - Increase 6 sc around (not over previous increases). Repeat 4th rnd until piece measures 4 1/2" across. Work I round even. Next rnd - Work through front loops only for turn.
SIDES
Through back loops, work 1/2" even. Next rnd - Through front loops only, without beads, sl st in each st around. Next rnd Through both loops, with beads work as follows: *2 sc in each of next 2 sts, se in next st. Repeat from * around. Insert marker. Work even through back loops until sides are 3 1/2" from marker. Next rnd - Rather tightly work sc in next st, *skip 1 st, sc in next st. Repeat from * around. Work 1" for band, decreasing if necessary to fit snugly around top of box Iining. Fasten off.
COVER
Same as Bottom until 5" across (instead of 4 1/2"). Work 1 rnd even. Work 1 rnd through front loops only for turn. Through back loops work even to I" from turn. For edging slip 4 beads (instead of 1) before each st. Last rnd - Slip 1 bead before each st. Fasten off.
HANDLES
Without beads, make 3" chain. With beads, sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each ch until row is 2 1/2". Join with sl st into ring careful not to twist. With beads to outside work sc tightly around for 15 1/2". Fasten off. Finishing - Pad cover with cotton batting so that beading fits snugly. Sew in place. Pad bottom of box the same way. Slip box into beading inserting several thicknesses of cotton batting around sides to pad shirred section of bag. Sew beading at top and bottom of box. Stuff handle round. Make two tabs for bottom of handle as follows: Make 2 1/2" chain, join into ring and work beading for 6 rnds. Fasten off. Draw ends of handle through tabs and sew in place as illustrated.

This is Karen Stark.
"Among the ten foremost fashion designers in America today."
I thought you might be interested in her 1947 view of the fashion world.
New York Fashion Letter
"Formality of fashion is the keynote of the new Fall trends. American Design is entering a new phase, one of contemporary Victorianism.
The new and coming style is based on two principles, length and shape. Naturalness of shoulders, emphasis on hips and waistline, and more emphasis on femininity. This Fall season will bring fashion talent, imagination, and skill to its highest peak because designers now have the freedom of line and fabric which has long been denied them by restrictions and regulations during the war and the present reconversion. Once again we have the dreamed of almost legendary fabrics that can be molded into silhouettes which give a feeling of formality and elegance. Once again the shimmering satins, rustling taffetas, and lush brocades reminiscent of an almost forgotten era of ease and opulence. This use of stiff fabrics for late afternoon and evening lends an aura of elegance and charm. Formality in daywear is stressed by a softer, rounded look. Shoulders will be padded to appear natural and round. Hips will be emphasized by slight padding and intricate drapings.
Of keenest interest to everyone is the exciting new skirt length, for the much rumored longer skirt will be a definite reality in the Fall collections. This new length adds dignity and grace to any skirt; whether it be reed slim with long clinging lines, where the art of drapery and supple folds achieve the utmost of graceful expression, or exaggeratedly wide and romantic.
Afternoon and evening clothes will run the gamut in elaboration of design by fine detail, exquisite French laces and magnificent embroideries, to enhance the contour of the body lines.
The fashion conscious woman of today takes pride in presenting herself in the most pleasing manner possible and intelligently selects those fashions most suitable to her personality and way of life. Fashion must be dictated by the individual, not the individual by fashion, and the coming trends present such a variance of silhouette that the ultimate effect can only be one of great chic and distinction.
I believe in the feminine woman. I believe in clothes that bespeak charm and gracious living, clothes that not only flatter but dramatize woman's inherent loveliness."