Inspiration In a Pattern Envelope - 1954 Seattle Times

I seem to be on a roll. Today I found another clipping inside a pattern, also from the Seattle Times. This dates from April 25th, 1954. Unfortunately there is no designer or even a store name, but that may not be the story here. Our seamstress kept this from 1954 and it was found in this 1957 Simplicity pattern. She'd kept this in mind (and maybe in her purse) till she found what she wanted. And I think she got pretty close. It's not exact, but I bet she got the same admiring glances.

Complete Costumes in Exciting Colors - 1961 Seattle Times

I love when I find things in patterns! This clipping was in a pattern that didn't look anything like this outfit, but you can tell tell the seamstress had good taste. And there's a good chance she was from Seattle.

This was "a Dorothy Neighbors Fashion Report" from January, 18, 1961. I grew up with the name Dorothy Neighbors in my local paper, the Seattle Times. It covered everything woman needed to know about fashion and food in Seattle. It was the nom de plume of Marilyn Kirkby, who wrote for the paper for 35 years.

We also have the illustrators name, Gerry Abbott,"For more than 20 years, Mrs. Abbot created the weekly feature "Seen in a Seattle Store" in the Seattle Times."

"The dress plus jacket costume by Maurice Rentner is in two textures of silk. The yoked, short-sleeve top is a cane-weave check.

"Three piece-suit-suit costume was designed by Carmel in light gold wool. The jacket lining matches the tie silk print blouse."

There is a wonderful article about Gorge Carmel at the Couture Allure blog.

Embroidered 1920's Dresses from Pictorial Review Embroidery Magazine

"Patterns for the women with slender or larger hips are only available in Pictorial Review Patterns"
These go from dresses you might wear at home to lovely gowns for your fanciest night out!

A Family of Fobs

A Family of Fobs, or Bookmarks, Lamp-Pulls, Pincushions, Embroidery Designs.

"These fascinating fobs may be embroidered on the pocket of the blouse or suit, or even on the collar of one's coat. The faces, hair, and neck treatment may either be embroidered on the fabric, and the ribbon left hanging below, or they may be made separately. The faces, neck, and shoulders be made of kid or a tightly woven silk such as radium, taffeta, or satin. The faces can be transferred to the fabric by tracing over the lines with carbon paper between this page and the cloth. The lines of the faces may be embroidered or inked in, the cheek tinted with water-color, and the hair made with silk or wool of a suitable shade. Where ruffs are shown, these may be added of ribbon or lace. The ornamentation on the front of the figures may be embroidered on the ribbon, or the ribbon may be trimmed with the additional contrasting ribbon for vestees, or with buttons as indicated. The bottom of the ribbon may be gathered into a bead or ornament, or tassels may be added.

Bookmarks
These sketches can be used as bookmark suggestions as well. The heads, necks, and shoulders may be cut out of bristol board, inked and colored, and a narrower section of the bristol board cut and placed between the two pieces of ribbon. You can cut two tiny points for the feet and leave them to protrude from between the two pieces of ribbon. You can get some charming color effects if two different widths of ribbon and two different colors are used. These ribbons can be tacked together or cemented together with adhesive. A bow or ruff of ribbon at the neck will cover the bristol board and the raw edges of ribbon at the neckline."

Lamp - Pulls Pincushions Embroidery Designs
These designs can also be used as a finishing touch to the lamp-pull, instead of the metal chain, or as pincushions that are hung on the wall or on the mirror frame, or as embroidery designs on pockets and bags. If used as pincushions, the under piece of ribbon must be well padded with lamb's wool or felt. If used for embroidery designs on pocket and bags, the faces should be embroidered right on the pocket or bag, and the ribbon left to hang free. The ribbon can be lengthened or shortened, and can be of a color to harmonize with the background. These heads can also be used without the ribbons as hat ornaments and trimmings for pincushions, powder puffs, and nursery accessories."

Pictorial Review Patterns make you look slender and youthful.

"New Fashions as they appear from month to month are featured in the fashion pages of the Pictorial Review."

The Simpler Stitches of Smocking

Have you tried smocking? I like how it doesn't take very much to make a huge impact. It's beautiful on a christening gown, charming on a child's dress and perfect on a peasant blouse. Try it!

In the early days when a peasant's blouse was not a fitted garment and there were sections that required gathering, in order to make them fit, smocking as a means of gathering the excess fabric came into being, and many were the variations that were introduced. Many of the simpler stitches are illustrated here.
The best aid in smocking is the row upon row of carefully and evenly placed dots, obtained most easily by using a stamping pattern. Usually two and a half times the width of the material (when finished) is required before stamping. You can he assured of more even and beautiful smocking if the gathering is done before the smocking is begun, and the width desired when finished determined and regulated by the gathering threads.
Fig. 1 shows the method of gathering the dots under the needle, and Fig. 2 shows how the material when gathered makes the plaits along the row of dots, which enables you to quickly take up the three or four threads of the fabric. Compress your materials into plaits so that the width of the plaited material is the width you wish for the finished smocking.

Outline Stitch (Illustration No. 3)
The outline stitch is worked on one line of horizontal dots. Begin at the left. Bring the needle up between dots 1 and 2. Pick up dot No. 1, keeping the thread below the needle. Pick tip dot No. 2 and draw slightly together. Continue by taking up dot No. 3, drawing together, then take dot No. 4 and continue, always keeping the thread below the needle.

Cable Stitch (Illustration No. 4)
The cable stitch is worked in the same manner as the outline stitch except that the thread in the first stitch is held under the needle and in the second stitch the thread is above the needle. The third is under the needle and the fourth above, continuing in alternating stitches.

Double Cable Stitch (Illustration No. 5)
The double cable stitch can be worked on one row of dots, keeping the second row of stitches close to the first row, using the same row of dots. If the top or first row is begun with a stitch with the thread held under the needle, the second row of stitches is begun with the thread held over the needle, alternating to the end.

Van Dyke Stitch (Illustration No. 6)
Starting at the left, bring needle up to the right of dot No. 1, take a stitch with the thread above the needle, through dot or plait No. 1. With the thread above the needle, take stitch through dot No. 2 from right to left. With the thread still above the needle, take stitch through dot No. 9. With the thread below the needle, take stitch through dot No. 10. With the thread below the needle, take stitch through dot No. 3. With the thread above the needle, take stitch through dot No. 4. Repeat until end.

Double Van Dyke (Illustration No. 7)
The first row is made the same as the single Van Dyke. The second row begins at dot No. 13, taking a stitch with the thread below the needle. With the thread still below the needle, it goes to dot No. 14. With the thread below the needle, to No. 8. With the thread above the needle, to No. 9, keeping the stitch under the previous row. With the thread above the needle, to No. 15 . With the thread below the needle, to No. 16, and with the thread below the needle, to No. 10, and with the thread above the needle, to No. 11.

Wave Stitch (Illustration No. 8)
Beginning at the left, bring the needle tip to the right of dot No. 15. Take a stitch through dot No. 13 with the thread under the needle. With the thread under the needle, take a stitch through dot No. 9. With the thread under the needle, take a stitch through dot No. 3. With the thread over the needle, take a stitch through dot No. 4. With the thread over the needle, take a stitch through dot No. 12, and with the thread over the needle, to dot No. 20. With the thread under the needle, continue to dot 21. If any of the dots are visible after smocking, remove with gasoline.

Honeycomb Stitch (Illustration No. 9)
Bring thread up through dot No. 1. Stitch No. 1 and 2 together with the thread over the needle. Draw needle through dot No. 2 again, and out through No. 8. Draw 8 and 9 together with thread tinder the needle. Bring through dot No. 9 up to 3, and stitch 3 and 4 together with the thread above the needle. Repeat.

Pictorial Review Magazine - Childs Frocks and Romper

Pictorial Review Magazine - Childs Frocks and Romper for sizes 2-14. Each of these features embroidery, but each one also has something special. Look at the pockets, ruffles, bows and that drape on the Bloomer Dress. So much love went into these.

Modele Parisien - Last Minute Sketches from Paris

Modele Parisien - Last Minute Sketches from Paris. This showcases the Modele Parisien line of patterns. These cost $1.00 each (plus you got a silk label) and were based on the latest designs from the top French designers of the day. We have inspiration (read knock-offs) from: Renee, Premet, Jenny, Molyneux, Worth, Cyber, Martial et Armande.
They were considered "a 'chic' collection specially selected by our personal representative in Paris through an exclusive arrangement with the greatest couturiers of the Champs Elysees, Rue de la Paix, and Palace Vendome. To meet the requirements of those who demand the most advanced creations of the Paris world of fashion..."

Pictorial Review Embroidery Magazine

Pictorial Review Embroidery Magazine - Illustrating Embroidery, Beading, Braiding and Fancy Work.
This is undated, but it was issued quarterly and this is number 31. If any body has an idea about a date please share, but this is clearly from the twenties. This are the flapper gals with the bobbed hair. The cover shows two young ladies in "charming frocks, suitable for graduation".
I have a lot to show you from this gem, but you get to save the cover price of 25¢ (30¢ By Mail).

"To women who make or would like to make their own clothes..."

The Pictorial Review is bragging about their PRINTED patterns. The have a "scientifically accurate edge of the pattern". And "many of new patterns are based on original Paris models". Then best all "should a dress at any time be spoiled through any defect in our pattern, every cent you may have spent for materials will be refunded".
"They almost talk to you!"

THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY
PUBLISHERS SEVENTH AVENUE AND THIRTY-NINTH STREET NEW YORK

Dear Madam:
Now, for the first time in history, you can get
• perfect PRINTED pattern -- a pattern you can use without
• moment's fear of making a mistake -- without a possible chance of cutting your material wrong.
The new simplified, printed. Pictorial Review Pattern almost talks to you as along. It tells you, right on pattern itself, how to cut your material without waste -- how to lengthen or shorten each piece to your individual lines -- how to match the pieces and put them together easily and accurately.
There are no superfluous margins on the Pictorial Review Pattern to confuse you, or trim off or fold over. Your material is always in sight while you are cutting it along the scientifically accurate edge of the pattern. You don't risk your material by having to cut through paper.
No other pattern in the world can offer you the advantages now found in the new Pictorial Review Printed Pattern. Not only in mechanical perfection -- but in chic and style. Many of these new patterns are based on original Paris models. Our representatives abroad cable us the newest style features~ which we translate at once into patterns for the women of America.
To illustrate our faith in the new Pictorial Review Printed Patterns we make,you this unequivocal guarantee: Should a dress at any time be spoiled through any defect in our pattern, every cent you may have spent for materials will be refunded.
-We want you to try these new Pictorial Review Printed Patterns -- to prove for yourself that there is just as much difference between them and any other pattern as between a gown made by a smart modiste and one made by a poor dressmaker. Most leading stores have them.

Improvements in Clothing - 1924 Primer of Hygiene

"CLOTHING protects the body from injury and shields it from heat and cold and from sun and rain. Our personal appearance depends to a great extent upon the clothing that we wear, but we should not forget that its purpose is to protect the body - that if our clothing is uncomfortable and unsuited to the weather it will not serve its real use."

And don't forget to harden your knees!

This is a beautiful and a pleasant world - 1924 Primer Of Hygiene

"ALL of us know that this is a beautiful and a pleasant world. We enjoy the songs of the birds and the beauty of the flowers. It gives us pleasure to feel the soft winds of spring and to watch the green come back on the trees. We love to watch the clouds sail through the sky and the snowflakes fall through the air. Everywhere we turn we find many things that give us happiness and contentment, and make the world a beautiful place for us to live in."

Are You Neglecting Your Most Important Feature?

"Are You Neglecting Your Most Important Feature?" "It's so easy to give your eyes their full share of beauty-magic - with MAYBELLINE!"
"Then behold the difference! Your eyes are so much lovelier!"

Stout Women May Wear Draped Skirts - 1913 McCall's Magazine

Stout Women May Wear Draped Skirts. Well, I'm sure we're all glad to hear that.

But once again please do take a moment and look at the details. That buttoned tab on the front of skirt, the narrow pleats down from the waist and the bit of a train on our seated lady, that amazing little back drape on our third lady and the contrast collar, cuffs and hem on the 'Tunic Shirt'. How grand. And all on Stout Women!

Something to Remember - Vita-Fluff Shampoo

You don't even have to show her hair...you just know that Vita-Fluff will make hair look like a orchid. Or something. Anyway it's a nice picture of the flower.

New Line on Lingerie - from Glamour Magazine in 1943

This collection runs from a set for honeymoon breakfasts to pajamas for a gal who's strictly tailored even in bed. Which one is your favorite?

1. Party petticoat Puts rustle in your rumba, gives skirts crisper lines. Red, white, black checks, red bows. Bur-Mil rayon taffeta. By Iris. Bonwit Teller, $3.95 2. Sunday-best slip: beautifully tailored in Bur-Mil rayon crepe with amusing Scotties cross-stitched in blue. Blue lattice work shapes bodice cleverly. In tearose. By Yolande. Saks-Fifth Avenue, $3.95 3. A housecoat to make you feel as fresh as a daisy the minute you slip it on. Of white cotton wide-wale pique with pert ruffles of crisp eyelet embroidery edging the neck, sleeves and pockets. At Best, $10.95 4. For a girl who's strictly tailored even in bed: red and white checked cotton pajamas. Shaped jacket, white frog closing. By Collegiate. Lord & Taylor, $2.95 5. Cut for good behavior: slip that won't twist or ride up, guaranteed for a year. Tearose acetate rayon crepe. By Stardust. Janice Shops, 167 W. 34 St., $1.39 6. Rose rayon taffeta slip: no underarm or over-hip seams to ridge under dresses. By Miss Priority. McCreery, $1.29 7. Half-pint percale pajamas do double duty on the beach or in bedroom. Jaunty blue stripes. Bamberger's, Newark, $2.50

8. Sweet nightgown by Yolande to match slip No. 2. Saks-Fifth Ave., $5.95 9. Knee-deep in rosebuds and blue bows: sheer cotton batiste pajamas, soft ruffled pinafore top. Lord & Taylor, $1.95 10. Lightweight pinafore-nightie: flowered cotton batiste. Lord & Taylor, $2.95 11 - Blue appliqued posies. Pink rayon satin Movie Star slip. Saks-34th St., $1.39 12. A gown with shapely bodice, full skirt, works figure magic. White rayon crepe, eyelet trim. By Iris. Lord & Taylor, $7.95 13. Matching robe, for honeymoon break-fasts. By Iris. At Lord & Taylor, $10.95 14. Fine trappings for a trousseau. Pink rayon crepe slip, white lace edge. By Formula. Famous Fashion Shops, $2.98 15. Fits like your own skin. Rose-Petal Slip in tearose. Guaranteed for a year. Htitzler Brothers, Baltimore, $1.49 16. Pussywillows scamper on crinkly cotton pajamas. Don't iron; wear 'em fresh from the line. By Co-Jama. Stern's, $2.98 17. White cotton panties, rosebud-printed. Gimbels, Philadelphia, 54 cents 18. The way to lovely hands: at bedtime smooth on hand cream, slip into pink cotton sleeping, gloves. Elizabeth Arden. $2

Huaraches - The Sandals That Made Mexico Famous.

You know I love me some ads, but this has to be one of my favorites ever. From Glamour Magazine, April of 1943 this ad is for Huaraches "for every precious playtime hour" to be ordered from The Old Mexico Shop which was in business in Santa Fe till 2009.
Don't miss the ad copy here. It's an example of fine advertising at it's best. Just remember For "Huaraches, "just say "Wah-rah'-chez".

When the postman delivers your pair of these famous imported sandals you'll begin to enjoy new sensations in real foot ease and comfort, and new pride in wearing something so truly original and handmade. The weavers of our STEERHIDE HUARACHES never repeat a pattern, and this is something that can be said of no other sandal in the world. It is a tribute to the Indian sandal-maker and to the good taste of the wearer.
The Indian Huaracheros use real leather only, honest leather that nature, and the backs of their own tough oxen, gave them. Unpolished and undyed, it has a beautiful light beige tone that turns deeper with wear. (Actual color photo.)
A product of the hot, rough country of southern Mexico, they are reinforced for rough going, and air conditioned against summer's heat.
The Steerhide that gives them stamina also gives YOU comfort, for the soft, fresh feet of supple leather thongs relaxes tired feet as nothing else can.
For "Huaraches, "just say "Wah-rah'-chez"
NO RATION COUPON REOUIRED
$2.95 is the price of this Bench-Made Sandal imported from our good neighbor Mexico and still available from us at no increase in price.
Easily fitted. We have all sizes for ladies and gentlemen in narrow, medium or wide lasts. Merely mention your shoe size, and if convenient send tracing of foot outline. Pure white leather is also available but only in plain weave and pattern.

Custom Scarfs - 1947 Cover Girl Fashions

These beauties were from Custom Scarfs Inc. in New York (215 West 40th Street if that means anything to anybody). They were also known as Wesley Simpson Custom Scarves. He was very a very influential designer of textiles, and was married to Adele Simpson. He commissioned famous artists and designers of the day for his scarves and other printed fabrics.

In searching this company I found that Linus Pauling bought 2 scarves and one stole (he wrote a check). And there is another ad here from the Miami News.

I wish we could see these clearer, or better yet, see them in person. It wouldn't it be great to match the scarfs with the designers? Any guesses?

Fabulous Forties Suits - She Magazine 1947

Suits Are Sculptured, Suits are Curvaceous, Suits are Urban and Suburban. And who can argue? The best thing about the Forties was those suits. Take some time and look at those details.

Hats - By And For Americans - 1947 - She Magazine

So many hats...all from this 1947 She Magazine. Make no mistake these are American women wearing American designers. "The styles on the following pages, all whipped up on this side of the Atlantic, clearly prove that American designers cook up as delectable concoctions as the Paris milliners."

"Spring advocates more hat and less foolish-ness."

"Cover Story - Synonymous with Easter...the soft navy suit illustrated on cover. Tenderly tailored to emphasize the feminine curves of your figure, it is collared with demure scallops. A Swansdown suit about $50. B. Altman"

"THE styles on the following pages, all whipped up on this side of the Atlantic, clearly prove that American designers cook up as delectable concoctions as the Paris milliners. They are pretty as American women are pretty. Their clean cut lines, their high style fit in with the good looking American designed clothes that American women wear. They are expensive, but we have selected them because they represent the artistry of some of our finest designers. They are trends. The Spring breezes will also blow on less extravagant models.
Spring advocates more hat and less foolishness. Off the face models have been accepted, applauded and adapted in all price ranges. Brimmed hats sit firmly back on the head. Not even the swoop down on the eye types lose face. There is a great deal of action behind the back of the head ... making exits as entrancing as entrances. The overstuffed look of winter has given way to straight adorned prettiness. Crisp ribbons are used by the yard in an unbelievable range of color . . . plus plaids, stripes and novelties. Flowers spring up in profusion. Veiling, maline and net come in for rapt attention."