Monday, May 31, 2010

The Diplomat - Travel-Fashion- Society Review, March 1957- Part 4 - From Rome...Cocktail Suits for Men

I wonder what happened to the idea of Cocktail Suits? And I sure wish these were in color because they sound pretty spectacular!

"Rome, which in the past has shown little imagination in men's attire for the cocktail hour, the theatre, and the not too-formal dinner, now is doing something about it. Specifically, Gaetano Savini of Brioni has designed a series of men's suits for the parties to which women wear cocktail dresses. He feels that the business suit is too workaday, sportswear not right, and the black tie too formal for the after-5 social hours, so he has created the cocktail suit for men. Here are three of the more conservative models imported by Hess Brothers of Allentown, Pennsylvania, (from whom you can buy them). They are photographed in the newly-opened Bird Cage Bar at the Pierre Hotel in New York. The "little dinner" dresses herewith pictured are all from Fontana of Rome." (All photos by Hale Haberman)

"An iridescent copper-colored Diipioni silk jacket, doublebreasted, with shawl collar and Roman cuffs. There's a double breasted vest-(hidden bere)-in copper and black. Black silk tapered trousers. The shirt is mushroom pleated, with lace edging on bosom and color. $500.00. The dress is white net, with feathery sprays worked out in glistening paillettes."

" A jacket of deep red mohair, single -breasted and three buttoned, with self cuffs and black collar. The trousers are black and red striped mohair. The double-breasted vest is of pearl grey Dupioni silk, and the shirt has a soft wing collar with red and white striped cuffs. Bow tie. $450.00. The dinner dress is white lace over pale yellow silk."

" A cutaway jacket with shawl collar in Giorgione blue wool flannel, with trousers of charcoal grey mohair. The vest is gold-colored, single-breasted, with shawl collar. Mushroom pleated shirt with ruffled edges and collar. Skinny bow tie in gold brocade. $400.00. The dress in ice blue Italian silk satin, is sprinkled with clusters of iridescent paillettes."

Saturday, May 29, 2010

The Diplomat - Travel-Fashion- Society Review, March 1957 - Hats and Hairdos Part 3

"HAIR IS MAKING a gradual transition from the wide, bouffant style of last season, to a smaller, more head-hugging coiffure. The revival of the Thirties look is reminiscent of Chanel and the simplicity of her era. Hairdos feature smoothness at the crown, a smoothness that sometimes continues right down to the nape of the neck. Whatever fullness there is, is placed low on the head, starting at the ear lobes. Hair is somewhat shorter, thinned, shaped, and tapered to curl a little more than the ultra, smooth-surfaced bouffant. It comes forward in waves and curls on the forehead and cheek, then curls sweetly around the nape of the neck, above the collar line. This, for the chiffon turban, and the deeper hat crown. Wider waves fill in the under-curve of the tip-tilted brim. Coiffures Americana, fountainhead of hair fashion for the American woman, (of which Mr. Ruel is chief styIist), and the Millinery Institute of America have co-operated most graciously to give us the full picture of coiffures and millinery for spring 1957." (All photos by Philippe Montant.)

"Laddie Northridge makes a trellis of glossy green leaves and stems to extend the brim of an oval picture hat of white balibuntal. Twin clusters of full-blown, white silk roses dip over each side in a lovely balance. The deep waves of the hairdo, curving toward the face, then back on either side of the head, offer perfect symmetry to the hat. Earrings by Marvella."

"Mr. Arnold places pale pink organdy camellias on an ice blue linen straw, and tilts the brim with a cascade of pale green organdy stems. Marvella pearls. "

"John Frederics recalls the glamour of Garbo in a 1957 version of the swagger hat. Fashioned of beige balibuntal straw, it has a tall, indented crown, and a profile rippling brim, accented with a wide band of matching beige satin, Crystal necklace by Marvella."

"Reminiscent of the Thirties-and Claudette Colbert-is Adolfo of Emme's turned back cloche of white balibuntal straw. It is trimmed with bands and cockade of navy and scarlet grosgrain ribbon-the very signature of the Thirties. The high crown fits well down over the crown of the head, but the turned-back brim shows off the bangs. Norwegian blue fox stole by Fredrica."

"Adolfo of Emme drapes a profile cloche of fine white balibuntal straw. Its rhythmically manipulated crown is encircled by an intertwined band of emerald green and sapphire chiffon. The smooth crown of the coiffure makes for the smooth and easy fit of the cloche. Furs, Fredrica. Pearls, Marvella."

"Laddie Northridge drapes a wide, tilted picture hat of fine black straw with a bouffant fold of printed chiffon. Golden satin ribbon picks tip the color of the yellow rose motif in the chiffon print, and gives the overbrim a soft, fluid line. The full bangs and soft feathery curls on the left, balance the tilt of this picture hat."

"The "Thirties" look, interpreted by Coiffures Americana, in assymetrical rhythm. The full bangs slant to the left, partially covering the forehead, and little feathery curls cover the ear and come forward to rest on the left cheek. On the right side-not seen here-the hair is swept away from the face."

"The revival of the deeper wave is reflected in this softly feminine hairdo. Deep waves sweep back from the top of the head, then dip, and rest, on either side of the forehead. The gentle, brushed-out waves partially cover the ears, then end in a turned-tip froth of curls around the nape of the neck."

"A modified version of the bouffant, this young, full-looking feather-cut features hair that is brushed toward the face in fronds. The casual bangs, and turned-under half-curls at the sides, give this hairdo its youthful air."

"The "Chanel" cut. The hair is brushed back from the forehead and sides, leaving a perfectly smooth crown. At ear length, it turns up into a delightful cluster of curls that extends around the head, covering the ears."

Friday, May 28, 2010

The Diplomat - Travel-Fashion- Society Review, March 1957 - Part 2

"Lace and Leather" This refers to spring suits and leather handbags...both groups well shown here.

The little lace suit in light pussy-willow grey. The lace is Alencon, and reembroidered, which gives it both beauty and body. The short jacket is fastened with rhinestone buttons, and tops a peg-top slim skirt. Designed by Matlin. Hat by Mr. Arnold. T-strap sandals by I. Miller. Marvella pearls.

The darling of current fashion is the cape, and here it is handsomely tailored in an Alencon type lace, topping its own slim skirt. Designed by Matlin. $125.00. Hat by Mr. Arnold. V-shaped pumps by I. Miller.

Open, this navy tissue wool, three-quarter length coat shows a colorful silk lining, gay as springtime, to match the print of the blouse. The high-rising belt is important, as as the peg-top skirt, By Irene, sold at Gunther Jaeckel.

A striking chess board print flashes out with each step of the way, in a pleated petti-skirt that is part of this black mohair coat-dress. Raglan-sleeved wide-belted, pearl buttoned, it is designed by Irene. Gunther Jaeckel carries it.

This classic black calf bag, made in France by Rosenthal, is stitched to outline the horseshoe handles, which are anchored with gold hinges. Piping defines the rounded base and sides. The bag is leather lined. Available at Plymouth Shops. About $35.00 (plus tax). Coat by Carmel. Hat by Mr. John.

Looking at you, is the charming new French chanteuse, Suzanne Bernark, now making her debut in New York. She carries a real French handbag imported by Bergdorf Goodman. A large envelope in polished kid, with scalloped edge and slip-button closing, it is fine for toting scripts and song sheets wherever she goes, along with the make-up and money. The hat is Mr. John's version of the Basque beret.

C'est formidable! In the inimitable French manner, this luxurious tailored giant envelope bag states the importance of a good big bag for the woman who has everything and wants to take it with her. The leather-lined bag is of softest reversed calf, with piped, rounded base. The handle is plain calf. Made in France by Rosenthal, one can buy it in Macy's for approximately $35.00 (plus tax). Hat by Mr. John. Coat by Carmel.

Thursday, May 27, 2010

The Diplomat - Travel-Fashion- Society Review, March 1957

Oh, my! We get to visit the upper crust. Starting with Miss Isabel Flood, San Francisco socialite, surveys the landscape at America's Switzerland- Sun Valley, Idaho. But for today lets's look at the Fashion Report By Vyvyan Donner.

An interesting silhouette with beautiful balance is created by Irene, in this full, blouse-sleeved top, combined with a slender stem -of -a-skirt. The deep V back is a dramatic break in the wide area of the top, and the butterflies and roses are printed on silk crepe. Gunther Jaeckel.

Born for the dance. A white frost silk marquisette dress with a great sweep of sash in floral-printed taffeta. By Irene. Gunther Jaeckel.

A warp-printed flowered silk taffeta cocktail-to-dinner dress designed by Fira Benenson. The print, the delicately-draped bodice and crushed sleeves ire reminiscent of XVIII Century portrait dresses. The skirt is drawn taut in front, has an airy, poufed panel in back. Jewelry by Marvella. Gloves by Iris. Lord & Taylor, about $295.00.

The wide, standaway, turned-down collar on this lustrous Russian broadtail jacket makes a handsome setting for the white mink ascot. Bracelet-length sleeves with cuffs; pocket flaps. By Fredrica. Available at: L. S. Ayres, Indianapolis; Lucy Baltzell, Hartford, Conn.; J. L. Hudson, Detroit; Rich's, Atlanta; I. Magnin, San Francisco; Swanson's Kansas City; Madeleine et Cie, St. Louis; Miss Jackson Shop, Tulsa.

Chinchilla in its silver tones, or in its silver tones, makes beautiful harmony with 1957's two top spring colors, light grey and beige. This chiffon-weight fur has the soft fullness needed to complement the sheaths and straight-lined evening gowns. Jacket by Ritter Brothers. The silk chiffon gown is magnificent draped to mould the bosom and midriff, falling from there to the floor in classic folds. A dream of a dress by Jane Derby. Jewelery by Fashion Craft. The Chinchilla, of course, is Empress.

Emba cerulean mink is particularly lovely with this spring's lilac tones and pearl grays. The horizontal placing of the skins on the sleeves and body of this jacket give it a softly-wrapped look of gentle protection. By Maxmilian.

Indispensible for traveling, a coat that withstands wrinkles and rain. It is designed by Peter Conte for Milner Rainwear in Swedish cotton tweed. A wide box pleat in back seems to form a flying panel. Hanging straight in repose, it takes on a graceful swing in motion.

From George Carinel's spring collection, designed by Louis Claveric. A willowy, slender wrap coat in honey beige imported French Alencon lace. Re-embroidery emphasizes the luxurious, carved, textured look in the lovely fern and flower pattern. The long, narrow silhouette is obtained by a slightly indented waistline, placed high, and inverted pleats set on either side in the back. Tiny, tailored bows top the pleats. Turban by Lilly Dache. About $425.00.

Full-length woolknit sweater coat designed by Goldworm, with a drawstring hood that flattens ot-it into a sailor collar. A ronv of nine disc buttons maintain the coveredup look. This coat will take an enormous amount of wear without showing a crease. No matter how you treat it or toss it about in packing or traveling, it never loses its shape.

Straight front and back, this handsome topcoat of British wool slants gently out toward hemline at the sides. lt has a deep, wide collar with tab button closing which stands out from neck just enough to give a glimpse of pearls. Hat by Mr. John. Coat by Glenhunt. $125. Available at: Bergdorf Goodman, New York City; Lewis Thos. Saltz, Washington, D. C.; Dorothy Bullitt, Philadelphia; C. Crawford Hollidge, Boston; Halle Bros., Cleveland; Saks, St. Louis; H. Liebes, San Francisco.

Urban sophistication in this navy, basket weave wool, fitted topcoat. This wonderfully striking silhouette is achieved by the cape back, and the fullness of many folds in the back of the "skirt." Designed by Sophie, with Stephen Erklin for the spring collection of ready-to-wear Sophie originals. Exclusively Saks Fifth Avenue.

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

The Fashion World - Wonderful Patterns from 1934! -Part 6

This is the last of these, but I wanted to show you the other part of this magazine...Movie Stars! But that was it, wonderful pattern illustrations and these few hollywood pages, but no ads or other articles. So it's still a mystery, but still fabulous!

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

The Fashion World - Wonderful Patterns from 1934! -Part 5

Ready for a cruise? With these fashions you can be ready for anything!

Monday, May 24, 2010

The Fashion World - Wonderful Patterns from 1934! -Part 4

Don't these women all look self-assured? Maybe because they were all models...but maybe it's because they all look amazing.

Sunday, May 23, 2010

The Fashion World - Wonderful Patterns from 1934! -Part 3

There are some more of these fabulous thirties fashions...still hoping somebody knows more about these.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

The Fashion World - Wonderful Patterns from 1934! -Part 2

More lovely fashion from this mysterious magazine. But we don't need to know the history to know these are pretty fabulous!

Thursday, May 20, 2010

The Fashion World - Wonderful Patterns from 1934!

So here's a very cool, but mysterious find. This magazine/advertising booklet is titled The Fashion World and this Summer of 1934 issue has loads of fabulous thirties fashion illustrations. But they are all for patterns that are only listed as "W" and a number. Nowhere could I find who sold these, or really any details. And this copy is falling apart, the edges are worn and it's a little to large for my scanner. So what we will see are some wonderful dresses and great style details, but not much background info. So if any of you can fill in the gaps here it would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise let's just enjoy some eye candy.

More to come...