Friday, August 19, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 8 Finishing Coats & Suits, Linings

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Finishing Coats & Suits, Linings, but we want to know about fur trimmings, remembering that fake fur is mostly treated the same.

" pieced with sections in the manner described in the paragraph on "Piecing Fur". Fur that is in good condition on the outside but that tears easily because of a tender pelt may be reinforced with cambric. Remove the interlining from the pelt and place the cambric next to the pelt. Quilt the cambric to the pelt, taking stitches 1/2-inch long on the cambric side and catching a very tiny stitch in the pelt. The stitches into the pelt must not catch any of the hair. Do not pull the stitches tight. The entire fur may be reinforced in this way or just the necessary sections may be reinforced. Fig. 24 (1).
Fur may also be quickly reinforced by cementing the cotton cambric. This method is practical only if the pelt is too tender to hold the quilting stitches. Choose a rubber cement or other adhesive such as milliners' glue that does not require heat. With a brush or spatula, spread the cement evenly over the pelt, then apply the cambric. The cambric will in this way adhere to the pelt and stitching is unnecessary. Fig. 24 (J). Finish the fur with interlining and tape as explained before.

Fur Cloth: Good imitations of fur may be purchased by the yard as fur cloth. However, fur cloth should not be confused with fur in construction, for it is treated as a fabric.
In cutting remember that the nap should run down toward the bottom of the garment.
If the fabric has a thick, heavy nap use a long stitch in sewing on the machine. Press all seams over a velvet board. If one is not accessible the seams may be pressed lightly on the wrong side and then steamed as for velvets.
Fur cloth will enhance the beauty of a garment if a good quality is purchased and if the precautions given for cutting and construction are followed closely."

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