Friday, August 19, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 8 Finishing Coats & Suits, Linings

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Finishing Coats & Suits, Linings, but we want to know about fur trimmings, remembering that fake fur is mostly treated the same.




"...be pieced with sections in the manner described in the paragraph on "Piecing Fur". Fur that is in good condition on the outside but that tears easily because of a tender pelt may be reinforced with cambric. Remove the interlining from the pelt and place the cambric next to the pelt. Quilt the cambric to the pelt, taking stitches 1/2-inch long on the cambric side and catching a very tiny stitch in the pelt. The stitches into the pelt must not catch any of the hair. Do not pull the stitches tight. The entire fur may be reinforced in this way or just the necessary sections may be reinforced. Fig. 24 (1).
Fur may also be quickly reinforced by cementing the cotton cambric. This method is practical only if the pelt is too tender to hold the quilting stitches. Choose a rubber cement or other adhesive such as milliners' glue that does not require heat. With a brush or spatula, spread the cement evenly over the pelt, then apply the cambric. The cambric will in this way adhere to the pelt and stitching is unnecessary. Fig. 24 (J). Finish the fur with interlining and tape as explained before.


Fur Cloth: Good imitations of fur may be purchased by the yard as fur cloth. However, fur cloth should not be confused with fur in construction, for it is treated as a fabric.
In cutting remember that the nap should run down toward the bottom of the garment.
If the fabric has a thick, heavy nap use a long stitch in sewing on the machine. Press all seams over a velvet board. If one is not accessible the seams may be pressed lightly on the wrong side and then steamed as for velvets.
Fur cloth will enhance the beauty of a garment if a good quality is purchased and if the precautions given for cutting and construction are followed closely."

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 7 - Sleeve Finishes - Hems and Setting in Sleeves

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Sleeve Finishes, with a detailed look at hems. All sorts of hems, self-stitched, taped, catch stitched, pinked, rolled, rolled whipped, shell, picot, edge-stitched and even hems for tricky areas, in a pleat, how to hem a fly front closing, interfaced hem of a jacket and hem finish at a faced edge.
So much to know, but oh so important to get these details right!

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Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 6 - Fittings!

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Fittings - Shoulder pads and Slide fasteners, with a special look at "Skirt-Top Finishes". You are shown a skirt-top with a belt or with facings. Enjoy!




Monday, August 15, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 5 Button Loops!

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Buttonholes, Pockets, Neck Finishes with a special look at Button Loops, a fine way to class up your outfit!




Sunday, August 14, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 4 - So many Seams!

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Assembly of Garment. This includes so many types of Seams, Plain Pinked, Self Stitched, Lapped, Tucked, Overcast, Self Covered, Bound, Catch Stitched, Double Stitched, Welt, Double Stitched Welt, Flat Felled, Hand Fished Felled, Simulated Slot, Slot, Strap, Piped, Corded, Taped, and Crossed! There must be some techniques here you haven't tried.







Saturday, August 13, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 3 - Cutting

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Cutting - Effects of Cutting on Final Appearance of Garment, with help on matching plaids, checks, stripes!






Thursday, August 11, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - 1948 - Lesson 2 - Pattern Alteration

More from Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's Pattern Alteration, To Enlarge Waist or Hip.





Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling - Lesson 1 - 1948

I just got a set of ten booklets called Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling by Doris Anderson. We are going to look at highlights from each one. Today it's "Figure Analysis". Stand up straight!








Monday, August 8, 2011

High Fashion in Austin Texas - 1942!

Sometimes I find great stuff in with patterns I buy. These clippings are from the American-Statesman, an Austin, Texas newspaper from Sunday August, 23, 1943. They feature fashions from Yaring's and Scarbrough & Sons, two fine department stores that catered to collage bound gals, school girls and some high end suits and coats - "all sketched from stock"!


"Fitted black 100% wool coats with gleaming silver fox fur. $110.00"





Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Miss Rheingold of 1957!

This cracks me up...first that Rheingold was advertising as "the Dry beer". Then it's that her cowgirl outfit came from Saks Fifth Avenue. ;-) But Margie McNally did get her own beer can and when on to a famous career with her married name Margie Peterson helping run several car magazines and opening a interior design company.
The photo was taken by Paul Hesse , who is very interesting too. Do check out the links.


Monday, August 1, 2011

Paris Fashion - 1955 Spring Lines on Street Corners - Givenchy and Dior

"Spring Lines on Street Corners" from Realities Magazine May 1955
"Four out-of-doors ensembles from the current collections"
Photographs by Sante Forlano


"No 1332," an ensemble by Givenchy with a new formula: a three-quarter coat, sleeveless and boat-necked, in a warm beige tweed, worn over a wool jersey suit in the same shade. The silk umbrella is by Vedrenne.


"Anglomanie:" two pieces that look like three are something to sing about, A long-torsoed dress by Dior in black and white Glen plaid becomes an almost classic suit when its jacket is buttoned up. New points: the longer back of the jacket over the pleated skirt. Worn with a yellow straw beret.


"No 4298:" a wide stand-away collar with its triple-fold bow is the headline news of this natural Glen plaid suit by Givenchy. The collarless three-quarter coat in a darker beige fleece is straight and simple. the cap matches the suit. Her leather bag is by Hermes.


"The A Dress," a pearl for the oyster: a dark gray flannel suit by Dior. The long double-breasted jacket, slit on the side, pyramids over a wide-pleated skirt held out by a petticoat. Hat in white felt.
(Photograph taken in front of Marius restaurant, 9, rue de Bourgogne, Paris)

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Machine Decoration is Quick, Easy, and Fun To Make Money, Save Money - 1952

As I suspected this was a Necchi production...the lovely Mary Beth scanned her copy and shared the introduction pages. This book features the "Necchi Custom DeLuxe (Model BU)", but the tricks and treatments shown work with any machine...but I'm sure the Necchi did it all better!