It's odd, but the Woman's section was almost all in black and white, other sections featured color pages. But if you click twice to enlarge these you'll see all sorts of good details. And remember these are regular, everyday clothes that women really wore...not movie stars or fashion models, but our mothers and grandmothers.
"In the past the motion picture has exerted only a general influence over fashion as a whole. Its future role will be almost paradoxical in its difference. The effect on fashion will be specific. Even in the most fantastic motion pictures, the emphasis will be placed on simple clothing. Of all the ideas which American designers have introduced to the fashion world, their simple designs have been the most successful, and therefore, the most saleable. The "simple" dress has come to be recognized as the unofficial "trade-mark" of the American fashion designer. I believe it will soon become the fashion mark of the designing world.
The soft, feminine suit, the dress which sets off rather than overpowers a personality will be my contribution to fashion designing as far as the motion picture is concerned. The stars which I am entrusted to dress-attractive women like Lana Turner, Judy Garland, Greer Garson, and Claudette Colbert-have all expressed their admiration and approval for the new "simple" cut of my designs. It is my belief that their reactions mirror what will be the feelings of women all over the world. I predict that the "all American" dress will be the choice of the majority of the fashion conscious women of the world once they have been given the opportunity to see it in our motion pictures. Without realizing it, they will slowly begin to adopt the ideas which our American designers will present to them from the screen.
The too, too broad shoulders, the wedge shoes and ankle straps, and the completely "mad" hats, must surely fade from fashion. They will be lost primarily because the motion picture will no longer make pictorial mention of them. Film executives have learned, after many bitter experiences, that in Hollywood, where the camera always has a tendency to over-exaggerate the face and figure, it is dangerous to attempt to do the sensational any longer. Absurd clothing will appear only when it is necessary to establish the identity of a character in the minds of an audience. Certainly no woman wants to be classified as a "character" because of her bad taste in clothing.
Actually, a very definite feeling for longer skirts has been expressed by all the stars for whom I design clothing. Irregular hemlines, dipping points, and wide sash ends that fall below the edge of the skirt will be fashionable during the next fashion season because of this new demand for things feminine.
Naturally, fashion innovations like the dipping points and wide sashes are not new. Every few years there is a variation on these designs, and every good fashion designer knows, whether he likes it or not, that fashion always finds a way to repeat itself historically. Even though this is true, even though many women will find irregular lines in dresses unpleasant to the eye, it appears certain that the new credo will be not to lose sight of the figure and the activity of the modern American woman.
With the lifting of clothing restrictions, we designers anticipate a certain amount of "madness" -even among ourselves. Women "dress" more than they ever have before. Service women, especially, return home with a longing for pretty clothes. All designers want to bring out new ideas-the new ideas which have been bubbling in their sometimes too fertile brains. As a result of this sudden rush, it is only natural that there will be a lack of continuity for a while. Anything and everything will be done, but after a time things will begin to simmer down, the proper trends will take their places, and the regular cycle of fashion will hold sway again.
Before very long a good many women will have their own airplanes, but I doubt that they will want to wear flying clothes. I flew my own plane for a number of years before the war, and am anxious to get back to it now, but certainly I never thought of appearing at a cocktail party in a flying suit. It would have hampered my movements, and caused me no end of self-consciousness as well.
Because of postwar demands, clothing will never again be allowed to binder the activity of a woman. If, during the turning cycle of style, such fads as the hobble skirt return, it will be only as a suggestion of a hobble skirt, and not the actual hobble. With bustles it will be the same thing - just a feeling of fullness in the back. Clothing will have to keep up with the new interests and activities of women.
Having tried using full skirts in several pictures lately, and seeing that they have not been too popular, I have no further feeling for them at the present time. There was no real joy in doing them. Dresses with tight tops and very full skirts always have a Middle European look about them, and clothing should look "American" now, as never before.
We should forget the idiotic importations which will be flooding the fashion market during the next few months. Too many American women dress badly because they attempt to follow French fashions. The best lesson we could learn from the French, (if we must borrow something from them) would be to copy their custom of buying clothes only once, or, at the most, twice a year. No one can deny that the Parisian woman is always well dressed, but few people ever realize that she dresses, in all probability, for far less than what the average American vvoman spends on one month's clothing bills. It's just a matter of careful planning and thoughtful execution, that's all.
Actually, a sensible woman can get by for an entire year on the following carefully selected pieces of fundamental clothing:
Two suits: one for town, the other for country wear.
One silk dress: for all formal occasions.
One "Date Dress": for dates exclusively. This can be interchanged with the silk dress without anyone being the wiser.
Two -wool dresses: for winter wear on all occasions.
One cool two-piece dark dress: for summer; plus any simple and inexpensive cotton dresses which can be picked up in-between.
Two print dresses: one dressy, the other simple, for summer's wear.
One heavy coat: good for dress or business.
And finally, one light coat or topper: to finish off the entire year's wardrobe.
Colors are always very important. Deciding on a basic scheme and sticking to it is the best policy in view of the fact that few women can ever remember the exact color of the hat or coat that's hanging in the closet at home when they're trying to select accessories to match it.
Courses in fashion education would be a very great improvement in our educational system in America. Teaching our younger generation the importance of good grooming and proper dress would, in the long run, repay the taxpayer a hundredfold. Stevens College, a forward school, with an ever ready eye to the future, has already instituted such a course, and found it to be highly successful.
Although it is a slow process, America is becoming increasingly aware that fashion sense is, after all, only common sense. The most ordinary woman can, with a little forethought and ingenious planning, assure herself of an even footing with even her most glamourous sisters. The real trick is to accomplish the unusual and still not be overpowering about it."
First let look at "Creations for the New Silhouette" by Hattie Carnegie.
(Remember to click twice to read the details)
"If we ever needed a good figure, certainly now is the time, for the current styles rely for a great part of their effect upon the soft curves and graceful lines of a normal, well-developed figure.
Are you one of those whose mirror discloses shortcomings should be remedied? Then let's let's talk it over; for, whatever your problem, I am sure, together, we will chance upon a satisfactory solution. First, let us consider the case of the girl whose bust refuses to pass the thirty-two-inch measurement. If she is eighteen or under, let her remember that there is nothing more delicate than the slender lines of a girlish figure and make no effort to alter her appearance. If, however, she is a fully-fledged young woman, a bride, or a matron of years, it is the part of wisdom for her to determine to develop her figure to proper proportions."
"If the whole body fails to measure up to standard, diet is the first agent of reform to enlist. You need more or better nourishment. The milk diet will provide this in the simplest, most easily digested form, and increase your weight from one and a half to three or four pounds a week, the bust, of course, sharing in the general development. A use of the tape - measure, after a few weeks of the milk diet, will provide cause for rejoicing. Next, let us try some simple local treatments. Hie yourself off to the nearest drug store and purchase a cake or two of cocoa butter. Then, when you are ready for bed at night, seat yourself cosily at your dressing-table and, with lighted candle before you, heat a cake of the cocoa butter over the flame until it begins to melt. Quickly, transfer it to the bust and apply gently with a circular motion. Warm again, and again massage, until the breasts and shoulder have been well anointed. Do not be afraid of using too much because your object is to secure its absorption by the the skin. Be careful not to handle the breasts roughly, but let every movement be light and delicate. A fifteen - minute treatment is ample, and should be followed by a thorough spray with cold water.
In the morning, on rising, fill a basin with hot water, to which has been added ten drops of tincture of benzoin, and bathe the bust till the skin is pink and glowing. Then spray with cold water. This will help to firm the flesh."
"Be careful not to bind the bust with any of your clothing-brassieres and other trig and tight wearing apparel are for your full-busted sisters; your own garments, at all times, should leave the bust plenty of room, without compression.
Let the flat busted woman eat a half dozen figs each night, or soak six prunes over night in a tumbler of water, and in the morning drink the water and eat the prunes, masticating them throughly before swallowing. A couple of glasses of hot water an hour before each meal, and just before retiring, will also help in the good work.
I wish you would try the cocoa massage, plus a reform in your diet, for the next month. If you want any additional aid, there is a very simple treatment secures excellent results for most people. It consists of a fattening liquid, of which two dessert spoonfuls are taken before each meal.
The woman with too full a bust should use the following pomade made nightly and follow with an astringent compress:
THE VAUCAIRE ASTRINGENT POMADE
White vaseline..................30 grams
Aristol....................................2 grams
Essence of peppermint....10 drops
Editor's Note. - Every woman possesses the possibilities of attraction. Beauty often lies merely in clear eyes, well-cared-for skin, nicely manicured nails, soft and luxuriant hair and an attractive figure. It is Miss Beacon's object in this department to lend every aid to the woman who wishes to improve her appearance and her health. All inquiries will be cheerfully answered by mail, if a stamped, addressed envelope accompanies the request. "
