Saturday, May 29, 2010

The Diplomat - Travel-Fashion- Society Review, March 1957 - Hats and Hairdos Part 3

"HAIR IS MAKING a gradual transition from the wide, bouffant style of last season, to a smaller, more head-hugging coiffure. The revival of the Thirties look is reminiscent of Chanel and the simplicity of her era. Hairdos feature smoothness at the crown, a smoothness that sometimes continues right down to the nape of the neck. Whatever fullness there is, is placed low on the head, starting at the ear lobes. Hair is somewhat shorter, thinned, shaped, and tapered to curl a little more than the ultra, smooth-surfaced bouffant. It comes forward in waves and curls on the forehead and cheek, then curls sweetly around the nape of the neck, above the collar line. This, for the chiffon turban, and the deeper hat crown. Wider waves fill in the under-curve of the tip-tilted brim. Coiffures Americana, fountainhead of hair fashion for the American woman, (of which Mr. Ruel is chief styIist), and the Millinery Institute of America have co-operated most graciously to give us the full picture of coiffures and millinery for spring 1957." (All photos by Philippe Montant.)

"Laddie Northridge makes a trellis of glossy green leaves and stems to extend the brim of an oval picture hat of white balibuntal. Twin clusters of full-blown, white silk roses dip over each side in a lovely balance. The deep waves of the hairdo, curving toward the face, then back on either side of the head, offer perfect symmetry to the hat. Earrings by Marvella."

"Mr. Arnold places pale pink organdy camellias on an ice blue linen straw, and tilts the brim with a cascade of pale green organdy stems. Marvella pearls. "

"John Frederics recalls the glamour of Garbo in a 1957 version of the swagger hat. Fashioned of beige balibuntal straw, it has a tall, indented crown, and a profile rippling brim, accented with a wide band of matching beige satin, Crystal necklace by Marvella."

"Reminiscent of the Thirties-and Claudette Colbert-is Adolfo of Emme's turned back cloche of white balibuntal straw. It is trimmed with bands and cockade of navy and scarlet grosgrain ribbon-the very signature of the Thirties. The high crown fits well down over the crown of the head, but the turned-back brim shows off the bangs. Norwegian blue fox stole by Fredrica."

"Adolfo of Emme drapes a profile cloche of fine white balibuntal straw. Its rhythmically manipulated crown is encircled by an intertwined band of emerald green and sapphire chiffon. The smooth crown of the coiffure makes for the smooth and easy fit of the cloche. Furs, Fredrica. Pearls, Marvella."

"Laddie Northridge drapes a wide, tilted picture hat of fine black straw with a bouffant fold of printed chiffon. Golden satin ribbon picks tip the color of the yellow rose motif in the chiffon print, and gives the overbrim a soft, fluid line. The full bangs and soft feathery curls on the left, balance the tilt of this picture hat."

"The "Thirties" look, interpreted by Coiffures Americana, in assymetrical rhythm. The full bangs slant to the left, partially covering the forehead, and little feathery curls cover the ear and come forward to rest on the left cheek. On the right side-not seen here-the hair is swept away from the face."

"The revival of the deeper wave is reflected in this softly feminine hairdo. Deep waves sweep back from the top of the head, then dip, and rest, on either side of the forehead. The gentle, brushed-out waves partially cover the ears, then end in a turned-tip froth of curls around the nape of the neck."

"A modified version of the bouffant, this young, full-looking feather-cut features hair that is brushed toward the face in fronds. The casual bangs, and turned-under half-curls at the sides, give this hairdo its youthful air."

"The "Chanel" cut. The hair is brushed back from the forehead and sides, leaving a perfectly smooth crown. At ear length, it turns up into a delightful cluster of curls that extends around the head, covering the ears."


  1. just curious do you happen to know anymore about Mr. Ruel?

  2. I wish I did. You might try a google search, I am limited to my iPhone just now, awaiting a new laptop. But if you find more info, please share!